“I pretty much fell off the face of the earth and chased great waves around for 6 months.” -Machado

by Scott Bass
Scott@surfermag.com
SurferMag

DOWN THE LINE SURF TALK RADIO – LET THE SALT WATER NOSE DRIP POUR
http://www.xtrasports1360.com/cc-common/podcast/single_podcast.html?podcast=downtheline.xml

San Diego’s Rob Machado, one of the most stylish surfers alive, discusses last summer’s Indonesian sojourn and his new movie chronicling his experiences abroad.

You were drifting around Indonesia on a motor scooter most of last summer; tell us about your Indo experience cruising around Indo.

I prefer to call it a motorcycle. Motor scooter makes it sound like a Vespa or something. I actually bought a Honda CB 100. I cruised around filming for my flick. I spent about six months living…sort of based out of Bali. I ventured out to the outer islands from Sumba to Lombok to Java…spent a bit of time in Java. There are a ridiculous amount of waves there that you can find if you really want to find them.

You sort of did the unconventional surf trip, in that you veered off the beaten path. You hung out with the local people in, as you mentioned, rather remote regions. I see that you helped the local communities out over there too.

As the trip went on I sort of realized that to really get away you have to venture way out. My bike started breaking down, and I used public transport and got into some cool funky places and I did a lot of camping, and I removed myself from my normal routine and it was good.

Your movie is called, tentatively, THE DRIFTER. With whom are you working on this film project? Is this a Taylor Steele production?

Yeah, Taylor and I came up with it, and Hurley is backing it and gave me the opportunity to basically disappear in Indo for six months. I pretty much fell off the face of the earth and chased great waves around for six months.

Undoubtedly, you scored some great waves and some great tubes. Photos have already trickled into the pages of surf magazines and on websites. We’ve seen some insane barrels from your trip. The notion that time stands still in the tube, the old surfing cliché, do you think there is any truth to that?

Wow, that’s pretty deep right there. For me, it’s about not thinking. I like the idea of actually being on a wave…I think that’s the only time that I’m actually not thinking. That’s the magic of surfing for me. There aren’t too many things that you do in life where your brain shuts off and you acting on what you are feeling and you’re not consciously making decisions.

Seems like the free-surfing vibe fits you perfectly. But watching you surf in events, your level of performance surfing is higher than it’s ever been. Do you still enjoy competitive surfing?

Yeah. Occasionally. It’s still fun, and I like watching those guys. That’s where the best surfing in the world is happening. If you watch those guys: Mick and Joel and Kelly and Andy, and now Dane and Jordy, The stuff that’s going on is pretty radical, so it is fun to go in there and mix it up with those guys. It’s hard because those guys are on tour together all the time and constantly pushing each other. When you are not around that level of surfing all the time it is hard to maintain and stay at that level. I try and hang with those guys as much as I can; it is inspiring to see those guys in person that’s for sure.

So the guys at Cardiff Reef aren’t inspiring you too much then?

(Laughs) Oh, you know, not quite the same level. But those guys at Cardiff are cool.

You mentioned Kelly, and I’m wondering, earlier in the year, Slater played in the Pebble Beach Pro-Am and hit some great golf shots. Especially on number 17, the par 3, it’s 200-plus yards, he hit it into a strong 20-knot head wind. Kelly put his tee shot 8-feet from the hole and birdied. Being an avid golfer yourself and a friend of Kelly’s, did you see that shot?

No I didn’t see this year’s event. That’s cool. That’s heavy. Serious stuff.

The movie is THE DRIFTER. Where are you at with that?

We are elbow deep in the editing room right now, so we are looking at a summer time release, we hope.

Are you involved with the music on the movie?

Oh yeah, I’m involved, and it’s pretty exciting. We just had Warner Brothers music come on board so we’ll be adding some of their acts to the flick. I recorded some music. We recorded some music in Indo. We are throwing everything we can into the mixing bowl and see how it goes.

Rob, thanks for the time today. Can’t wait to see the movie.

Thanks for calling, and thanks for the inspiration at Cardiff (laughs).

Interview by Scott Bass
Scott@surfermag.com
http://www.surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/the_drifter_qna_with_life_glider_rob_machado/
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http://www.mysurfboardbag.com
http://www.peaksandbarrels.com
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Thank you Rob Machado.

Technorati Tags: Al Merrick, al merrick surfboard, Bali, Beach, Costa rica, Drifter, Drifting By The Sea, Hurley, Indonesia, LOST.TV, Ocean, Pavones, Peru, rob machado, Rob Machado Movie, saving the waves, Surf Film, Surf News, Surf Travel, Surf Trip, Surfboard Brands, Surfboard Rack, Surfrider, The Drifter

Surfing Australia
Jan Juc Beach, Victoria
22 – 25 September 2009

Surfing Australia Sanction: Australia’s only National Grommet Event Series.

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 16 September, 2009 : – - Australia’s best 16 year and under surfers are amped and ready to unleash their surfing prowess at the opening event on the 2010 Rip Curl GromSearch Series presented by SNICKERS which begins next Tuesday at Jan Juc beach on Victoria’s Surfcoast.
 
With a record 120 field for the Victorian leg of the National series things are sure to be tight for the battle to claim opening series honours. Top 10 surfers from last year’s 16s boys division Connor O’Leary (Cronulla) and Niki Hoskin (Lennox Head) will look to hold off a new wave of competitors including groms that have been elevated from the 14’s division.

Soli Bailey (Byron Bay), Harrison Mann (Torquay), Noah Deane (Coolangatta) and Tylah Hutchinson (Nth. Beaches Sydney) all finished in the top 5 of last year’s 14’s ratings and are poised to challenge in the 16’s division after another year of practice. A year is a long time in grommethood!

Surf Coast residents Harrison Mann with brothers Sam and Jamie Powell (Jan Juc) will lead the local charge with strong support from Phillip Island and Mornington Peninsular surfers trying to keep the title on home soil.

Niki Van Dijk (Phillip Island) heads up the girls division after a stellar 2008/09 season including a last gasp win in the International final. She will be challenged by Coolangatta twins Brodie and Amiya Doyle and Lauren MCaleer (Nth. Beaches Sydney) with crowd favourite Zoe Clarke (Jan Juc) nipping at their heels.

All winners of the 16’s division get an invite to Bell’s for the National Final and following on from last year the highest placed non event winner on the GromSearch Ratings will also get an invite.  Eventual ratings winners of the 14’s divisions will get a two board quiver from one of Rip Curl’s leading shapers.

The ever popular SNICKERS EXPRESSION SESSIONS will be run every day & encourage any participants to have a go with prizes and awards for notable performances from all age groups. Event partners FUEL TV and WAVES MAGAZINE will be covering all the activities…

In a new development for 2009/10 Rip Curl and Strapper Surf have combined to offer an introductory day to competition for any local surfers aged 16 or under.

Dubbed the GROMSEARCH ‘FRESH START’ – the concept is to encourage any young surfers in the region, who haven’t competed at this level before, to bring their gear to the event and have surf. The “GromSearch Fresh Start” surf will be scheduled from 11am on Wednesday, September 23.

“We want to give as many groms as possible the chance to come to the beach and be a part of our event, without being judged under an official contest format,” said Mark Flanagan, Rip Curl Event Manager. “The GromSearch ‘Fresh Start’ is free, all kids will be given prizes and it’ll be a great no-pressure introduction to a surfing event.”

All local surfers are welcome with “on the spot” sign-in at Jan Juc beach before 11am on September 23. The GromSearch ‘Fresh Start is held in conjunction with Surfing Victoria, ensuring safe and suitable conditions for all participants. Please note, the GromSearch Fresh Start is dependent on conditions. Please check ripcurl.com.au or onsite at the Jan Juc contest site on the day for updates.
 
Rip Curl GromSearch Series, Australia’s premier Grommet Surfing Series, is made possible thanks to the support of Rip Curl, SNICKERS, Surfing Australia, Waves Surfing Magazine and Fuel TV. 
 
www.surfingaustralia.com :

What’s your take on this?
Post your thoughts: SV Forum

More Australasian Surfing News available here
Check the latest Australasian Surf Reports and Forecasts 

Steve Robertson

Groms – Surfersvillage

www.PeaksandBarrels.com

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Marc Lacomare : photo Aquashot/ASP Europe

Islas Canarias Santa Pro Junior

ASP Grade 3 Junior Mens event
Realejos, Tenerife
2 – 6 September 2009

Live Coverage  |  Results/Photos/Videos etc

Big Names Make The Show, Santa Surf Pro Junior to Finish Tomorrow

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 5 September, 2009 : – - Los Realejos, Tenerife Canary Islands — Eight heats were held for the second-to-last day of the ASP Grade-3 Santa Surf Pro Junior, last event of this year’s ASP European Junior tour, taking the prestigious event into its Man-on-man battles leaving three heats only for the final day tomorrow.

From the sixteen men who competed today, four only remain in contention for the title after a series of exciting exchanges and solid scoring battles taking place throughout the day, the consistent three to four foot (1 to 1.2 meter) waves delivering another opportunity for the Under-21 competitors to deliver their best surfing.

After claiming his maiden ASP European Junior title yesterday thanks to his closest ratings rival Jatyr Berasaluce (EUK) loss, the unstoppable Capbreton resident Marc Lacomare (FRA) secured his ticket for the Semifinals of the event, showing he would stay focused until the last minute of the season after besting other ratings top surfer Medi Veminardi (REU) in the Quarterfinals.

I paddled out very relaxed with no pressure at all and I must admit the waves really came to me so I was a bit lucky, Lacomare said. For both heats I managed to be focused while knowing I had not much to lose, we both chose a different peak so it was a real exchange and I think we both gave it our best and I ended winning which is great.

Lacomare, who is aiming at a win in Tenerife, is already guaranteed to be seeded into this year’s ASP World Junior Championships (WJC), and will be watching the intense battle for the final ratings Top 4 taking place tomorrow between potential qualifiers Laborde, Martin and Morais.

I am thinking that Medi (Veminardi), Charles (Martin) and PV (Laborde) are really performing well here so I wouldn’t be surprised to see the guys finish atop, Lacomare said. But I must admit the Portuguese guys have been rising pretty fast and it would be great to see some new faces around. The guys, Morais and Ribeiro, have had a great finish this year and I don’t think they were much expected at this level But they are here and stronger than ever.

Only surfer to counter the French assault today was rising Portuguese rider Frederico Morais (Ericeira, PRT), 17, the solid and stylish competitor besting other inform man of the year Damien Chaudoy (REU) in Quarterfinal No. 3. Morais, whose performance in 2009 has pushed him upfront on the regional stage leading the resistance against France’s domination along with Basque surfer Jatyr Berasaluce (EUK) and fellow Portuguese and 15-year-old Vasco Ribeiro (PRT), will face experienced competitor Pierre-Valentin Laborde (FRA) in Semifinal No. 2 tomorrow.

Guadeloupe native Charles Martin (GLP), 18, who went won the ASP Grade-2 Pro Junior event at Lacanau in August, confirmed he was back for good amongst Europe’s leading Under-21 surfers by making the Semifinals of the event today. Martin, who missed the first part of the year due to school obligations, will wrap-up his 2009 season with a major result whatever happens tomorrow when he faces grand favorite Lacomare in the first semifinal.

Missing a second consecutive final today was Maxime Huscenot (REU), 17, the defending event champion losing to Pierre-Valentin Laborde (FRA) in the last bout of the day in a close heat that saw Laborde get away with the win by less than a point difference. Huscenot, who made his way through to the Man-on-man battles with solid surfing throughout the week, was not able to counter the Hossegor native who has been showing great competitive approach in the event.

Laborde, who landed at Tenerife ranked No. 14 and knowing he would need something close to a miracle to hope for any Top 4 finish, is currently climbing up the ratings heat after heat and could achieve one of the best comebacks ever seen on tour if he wins the ASP Grade-3 event tomorrow.

The heat against Maxime (Huscenot) was really tensed because both of us were going to keep our ASP WJC hopes alive or not, Laborde said. I started fast with a couple of medium scores but I knew Maxime could come back any time so I am glad things stayed still. I know the conditions should remain the same tomorrow and my next opponent Morais is dangerous. I already have my best result of the year so I am happy already, but qualifying for Narabeen would be unbelievable.

The final day of competition will see the crowning of the ASP Grade-3 Santa Surf Pro Junior Sunday, September 6, after the last three heats of the 2009 edition are completed. A call will be made in the morning to decide on the start, at 11.15 AM.

Results, news and photos of the ASP Grade-3 Santa Surf Pro Junior are available at aspeurope.com

SANTA SURF PRO JUNIOR SEMIFINALS
Heat 1: Marc Lacomare (FRA) Vs Charles Martin (GLP)
Heat 2: Frederico Morais (PRT) Vs Pierre-Valentin Laborde (FRA)

Previous reports:
# 1 : Junior revolution returns to Tenerife for Santa Pro Junior
# 2 : Santa Surf Pro Jr kicks off at Tenerife, Bulard rips Rnd 1
# 3 : Laborde leads charge Day 2 of Canarias Santa Pro Junior
# 4 : Last Sixteen Decided in Santa Surf Pro Junior at Tenerife  

 

http://www.PeaksandBarrels.com

 

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Sea Kayak Adventures Inc. has operated sea kayak tours to the premier whale watching destinations of Loreto in Baja California, Mexico and at the northern end of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada since 1993. Blue and fin whales are frequently seen in the Sea of Cortez (known also as Gulf of California) on our Baja sea kayaking tours in Loreto Bay National Marine Park. Surround yourself with gray whales in Magdalena Bay. On our British Columbia sea kayak tours, kayaking with Orcas in Johnstone Strait, near Robson Bight Orca Preserve, a biological wonderland between mainland British Columbia and Vancouver Island near Port McNeill and Telegraph Cove.

Our camping, BC lodge-based and Baja mothership whale watching and sea kayaking BC Canada trips feature close encounters with wildlife, whales, extraordinary wilderness areas and incredible cuisine. No prior experience is necessary and we provide all the equipment needed. We are fully permitted and licensed in the areas/countries we paddle in, and well versed in natural history. For your safety and enjoyment we offer the best staff-to-guest ratio of any outfitter of Baja or BC Canada sea kayak tours!

Please check out Sea Kayak Adventures Inc.

To learn more about paddling visit http://www.ultimatepaddler.com 

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2 September, 2009 : – - The ASP Australasia Rated Red Bull Junior Surf Masters presented by Mick Fanning has once again proved a favourite with Australia’s top pro junior surfers. The ‘torched’ format, introduced at Red Bull Junior Surf Masters in 2008 was devised with the help of Mick Fanning and is designed to push the boundaries!

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Advice on surf-specific strength training

Total Surfing Fitness is the #1 Functional Training Program for Surfers on the Internet…

“I probably improved my surfing more in the past year than previous 10 years combined. Keep up the good work man! ” Ian, Redondo Beach , CA

“Total  Surfing Fitness has improved my balance and shoulder strength. I now catch around 12-15 waves per hour and can stay out in the water much longer. Cheers.”
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The 5 Steps Revealed: How to Triple Your Wave Count in 30 Days or Less

“The surf fitness training helped me improve my strength when paddling and my cardio strength as well. My physical appearance is better, my arms are a bit more toned and instead of having a 4 pack I now have a six, I also have been able to do more powerful turns.” Naomi

Thanks to you and your program my surfing has not only improved but become a lot more enjoyable. Note: Been in J- Bay surfing all time waves for the last 10 days – two surfs per day!  No problems and that’s only after 5 weeks of the program.”
Fabian Coetzer

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“A few years ago, energy industry executives who wanted to build natural gas plants in the New York region came up with a way around the perennial wall of neighborhood opposition to their plans. Place the projects in the open sea, far from troublesome neighborhood councils and community boards,”says Jim Rutenberg of the NY Times.

Surfers, Fisherman, boaters and most other beach dwellers are concerned and utterly upset about the possibility of a large scale gas station just out past the breakers. Surfrider foundation has been one of the loudest leaders regarding this new project.

Some of the arguments opposing project “Insanity Island” are:

• Gas / Oil Spills
• Increased pollution
• Target location for a terrorist
• Increased traffic through waterways

If you love our ocean please support Surfrider and the many other people who are fighting for ocean rights.

Join the Cause Here

Research More Below

NY Times Article

ESPN Article

Surfer Mag

WCBS Video

NY One

PeaksandBarrels@ My Surfboard Bag

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